The money quote:
Caracas was more beautiful than ever, splendid really, accompanied by its geography and its light. When we entered Bolívar Avenue, the lines got narrower and we slowed down. Someone said: “Everything seems to be normal: Thursday afternoon and, as usual, the streets are clogged with traffic.” The acoustics under the bridges livened us up. The chants were more easily synchronized and there was a much appreciated shade. I never heard screams of rage; even the chants of rejection were repeated with good humor, with grace, with a shared humanity that reminded me of Cabrujas.
#39 … the 11th, always the 11th.